Tuesday, January 22, 2019

Rome Journal: Trattoria, Ristorante, Osteria or Enoteca?

"Roman Osteria" by Aleksandr Laureus (1820)
Everyone is always looking for the perfect trattoria in Rome and they come and go. Trattorias serve pastas like cacio e pepe and carbonara and they may have platters of prosciutto and salamis, naturally insalate mista, sometimes a variety of pizzas including the classic margherita and then things like osso buco. Roman trattorias are rarely known for their pastries, but there's often zabaglione, the dessert stirred up of eggs and marsala wine. OK trattorias can be compared to diners in New York due to their set offerings, but on a de facto basis, they tend to be better, if only because of the ingredients, which are often a source of pride. Even though a New York diner is open 24 hours a day, there's no guarantee that the turnover will result in freshness. Now a ristorante is another matter all together. Like Tolstoy’s unhappy families Rome ristorantes each attempt to be exemplary in their own way and the fare may vary including such dishes as maolino, roast pig served at the magnificent Tavernaccia da Bruno, a steak with a bone, appropriately named the Tomahawk, a specialty of Il Focolare in the Monteverdi section and Grano which has a flare for desserts. Beef by the way is not a Roman specialty and you’ll find that some  of the good beef to be found in Rome comes from Ireland. Ristorante Maccheroni near the Pantheon is a little more than kin and less than kind, mixing the bustling qualities of a trattoria with some of the specialties of a restaurant and if you sit in the center room, you can watch the cooking. Lumie di Sicilia on the Gianicolo is on the other hand plainly a restaurant which serves regional fare. Of course Rome has its share of osterias and enotecas, but where in this holy city can you can pluck from the tree of forbidden fruit?

Monday, January 21, 2019

MoMA Roma

"History is nightmare," says Stephan Daedalus, but in the case of Rome it’s why you go there. The Mausoleum of Augustus lies in back of the Ara Pacis, the famed monument to peace dedicated by the Rome Senate on July 4, 13BC—yes Independence Day! But in front of the Mausoleum is en plein air exhibit. It’s like the open mike at a poetry reading. The diversity and brilliance of the contemporary Roman art world is on display for anyone who wants to see or be seen. “Torno subito,” are the words written next to a cigarette butt, “ “Invito, Il Giorno 17 Gennaio Alle Ore 18 Libreria Del Palazzo delle Esposizioni per Presentare Il Mio Libro ‘Fuori Catalogo’ Per L’Occasione Esporro Anche Alcune Opere Vi Aspetto,” reads another placard lying on the stone parapet, a boxer with gloves is drawn in chalk on the pavement. A rock sitting next  a window is bookended with “in case don’t break the glass” in English and Italian. Stone depictions of Narcissus lie in a plastic tub. A pill bottle is titled “Natura Morte.” Remember Pasolini's Mamma Roma? Despite museums like the Galeria d'Arte Moderna, this impromptu MoMA Roma, sandwiched between two great monuments to the past, is an inadvertent essay on the perennial essence of Rome.

Friday, January 18, 2019

Rome Journal: Art Attack

Selfie from the Warhol show at the Vittoriano 
Along the walls of the “Pollock and the New York School” show at the Vittoriano, you’ll come upon two typos. “In the summer of l949, he went to Springs, New Hampton” and “Lee Krasner, a painter, even gave up paiting at one period.” The Pollock and accompanying “Andy Warhol” exhibition are running coevally with the Warhol retrospective at the Whitney and “Epic Abstraction: Pollock to Herrara” at the Met. But the booboos are so much in the spirit of action painting and spontaneity that they’re almost charming and excusable and you get to finish the Warhol with a selfie, which you can email home. Since the Abstract Expressionists and later Pop artists were such a break with European art, it’s a treat to see these two shows, which in their scope are, of course, overshadowed by their American counterparts. In the environment of Rome, the power of American art still upstages puny antiquity which continues to look like one of the stage sets on the Cinecitta lot, where the whole kit and caboodle are, by the way, replicated. One can’t help noticing that the love affair between Warhol and Italy (and particularly Italian fashion designers like Armani and Versace), represents a cross-pollination of the worst aspects of both cultures, coming to a head in the infatuation with celebrity.

Thursday, January 17, 2019

Rome Journal: Henri Cartier-Bresson

"La Photographie...saisit l'instant"--Henri Cartier-Bresson  (photo: Francis Levy)
This from Henri Cartier-Bresson, written in elegant cursive on the side of an RV with a Magnum Photos sticker on the front) parked along the Via Pietro Roselli on the Gianicolo. There are machine gun toting soldiers guarding both the American University, the Seminario Teologica Internationale, the back of the American Academy and an auspicious looking institution with eagle sculptures over its gates and a plaque outside that reads "Juridicum Claretianum," on the Via Giacomo Medici up the street. “Le temps court et s’ecoule et notre morte seule arrive a le rattraper. La photographie est un couperet qui dans l’eternite saisit l’instant qui la eblouie.” In short it’s carpe diem, time flies and photography seizes the moment. The least the itinerant traveler can do is to reach into their pocket for an iPhone and take the picture of the quote in the spirit of the great photographer's (and founding member of Magnum Photos) words.

Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Rome Journal: Reality Palestra

The Spanish Steps (photo: Arnaud 25)
Palestra is the Italian words for gym, but there aren’t a helluva lot of Italian gyms that are palaces. Visitors often decry the absence of the chains of American gyms that you find in America, but the fact is that in Rome reality is a gym and one of the most demanding ones you’re going to find. Let’s start with the famed Ara Coeli Steps on the Campidoglio--the best step climber on the market. Ascending strait up them to the Basilica di Santa Maria is a nice workout, but try ten of those. If you like stadium climbing, there’s the Colosseum and, of course, the Spanish Steps.Trastevere lies below the Gianicolo which is one of the seven hills of Rome and it’s a step climbing party. If you descend from the Pancrazio at the top and pass by the Spanish Academy in which Bramante’s famed Tempietto is located and then cross the street there are a particularly beautiful set of ancient steps descending into a classic winding back street. It’s 50 steps down and up and if you do l0 laps you've done 1000 which will commemorate the l000 years of the Empire. Then of course there are the 12 steps, but you'll have to attend an AA meeting, of which Rome has many, to climb those. Rome is full of runners and bicyclists and if you like hills and obstacle courses, Rome is the gym that you want to join.

Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Rome: The Underground

S300 train at Conca d'Oro station (photo Daniele Brundu)
When you think about it Rome’s Metro should be one of the seven wonders of the world. It’s actually hard to believe that the city’s fathers (and mothers a la Mamma Roma) had the chutzpah to build tunnels which would have to compete with all the archeology. In fact, during the building of line A, the second built in the system (there are also lines B and C) which began in l964 and ended in l980 that construction had to be stopped because of the archeological discoveries that were made in the area where the tunneling was taking place. In the case of New York for instance the only thing you might find were the remnants of the $24 Peter Minuit paid to the Indians for New Amsterdam, but building a Rome underground is a little like trying to pave streets at rush hour. Rome has often born comparisons with the human mind to the extent that a lot of what is going on in the city, takes place underground. Romans are like sleepwalkers who are unwittingly walking on consecrated ground. The artifacts of the past are so ubiquitous that you could easily be walking on the hallowed ground where Augustus or even the exiled Ovid once paraded. The Largo di Torre Argentina adjacent to the Theatre of Pompey where Julius Caesar was stabbed on March 15, 44 is, in fact, now a tram stop. Rome was itself one of Freud’s favorite stops and much has been written about psychoanalysis and Rome, but the city also hosts an Underground whose stations might be compared to circles of Dante’s Inferno in the significance of the signposts they represent.

Monday, January 14, 2019

Rome Journal: Psychoanalysis

It would be fascinating to undergo a psychoanalysis in Rome. Freud was interested in archeology and he regarded the discipline as having much in common with the fledgling science he created. The famous Roman ruins, the Colosseum, the Caracalla Baths, the Theater of Marcellus are all constantly on display creating the often disconcerting feeling that one is on some kind of Hollywood set. In fact if you take a guided tour of Cinecitta the famed Roman film studio, you'll have trouble differentiating some of the fiberglass sets from the Rome citadel outside. And underneath the city excavations are always coming upon new layers of history. So you have reality and illusion and then an underground, a nether world of past civilizations that’s very much like those parts of the unconscious which are unearthed in treatment and which play a role in determining the present. It’s like one of those script writing programs which provide you with all the cues and the layout for an imaginative act. Frederico Fellini, a long time resident of Rome, also underwent psychoanalysis there and when you look at films like Roma and especially you can see the influence of the couch in his work—which is so inured in both individual and collective memory. There is actually an International Institute for Psychoanalyic Research and Training for Health Professionals on the Viale Tito Livio and also an Italian Psychoanalytic Association on the Via di Priscilla, neither which will probably be on the itinerary of most tourist buses.The Interpretation of Dreams contains five instances in which Freud recounts the longing to visit Rome, though he apparently had some inhibitions about going (due to his identification with Hannibal and his fear of the Catholic Church, according to the Rome the Second Time blog) since he didn't travel there until l901. And in Civilization and Its Discontents Freud makes the following proposition: "Let us suppose that Rome is not a place where people live, but a psychical entity with a similarly long and rich past." "Freud famously likened Rome to a palimpsest," remarks Nigel Spivey in The New Criterion ("Eternally Ours," November 2018), "a text overwritten and annotated time and again. This may have suited as an analogy for the multiple layers of the human psyche when subject to psychoanalysis." What Rome and psychoanalysis have in common is an immersion in the past. The German compound word Vegangenheitsbewaltigung means, according to Collins, the  "process of coming to terms with the past," but despite all the pain of what goes on during a session, Rome is probably one of the few places on earth where treatment could be regarded as a vacation.