Diasporic Dining XXX: Kutsher's

In its heyday in the 50’s Kutsher’s, along with Grossinger’s, was one of the great resorts of the Catskills. Now Kutsher’s still hobbles along, a shadow of what its once was, a victim of the exodus of its Jewish constituency to Florida and Grossinger's is no more. For those who mourn the passing of establishments like Kutsher’s and prefer the past to the present, there are two alternatives: the first is to find a little pocket of the past where time has stopped (like the character in a famous Twilight Zone, "A Stop at Willoughby") and the other is post-modernism. Kutsher’s, a restaurant on Franklin Street inTribeca, established by a new generation of the Kutsher clan, tips its head to the past, serving things like matzoh ball soup, charcuterie (pastrami, salami etc), kreplach, Roumanian steak and latkes in a haute cuisine and high fashion setting. Ironically the décor partakes of a style of restaurant architecture that pays homage to the fifties and that was in fact exemplified by an episode of the post-modernist television program Mad Men in which Tip Toe Inn, another 50’s institution was recreated. If you are looking for real deli,you’d better go out to the Mill Basin Kosher Deli in Brooklyn or, Loeser’s in the Bronx with their trademark hotdogs and knishes sitting on an aluminum covered grills and salamis hanging in windows . These last survivors will offer a worm hole through which one can journey back without having to actually die, as the Twilight Zone character, who is fed up with the pressures of modernity, does. The dishes at Kutshers are really high priced citations in which memory has informed a new kind of cuisine. Cholent and stuffed derma were absent from the menu (and one wonders if the Kutsher’s kitchen has any plans to reintroduce these favorite cardio busters), though a version of schmaltz was available at post-modernist prices.

Diasporic Dining XXIX: The Yiddishe Grail

The Holy Grail is what the Knights of the Roundtable sought after. Like the shroud of Turin and the very notion of transubstantiation it represented an attempt to get closer to the body and blood of Christ. If the chalice that Christ drank out of has iconic significance for Christians then the deli occupies a similar place in Yiddish folklore. The deli now an endangered species has become the object of a new crusade by a whole new generation of Jewish professionals who attempt to get closer to the World of  Our Fathers, the Alter Cockers, by eating the food they ate in similar establishment where old Frank Sinatra songs are still piped into the restrooms. One such establishment, which could easily apply to the city of New York for iconographic status, is the Mill Basin Kosher Delicatessen at 5823 Avenue T in Brooklyn. As you can imagine Avenue T is way out there, near the end of Flatbush Avenue, in fact. It’s a schlep, but well worth the crusade. The pastrami at the Mill Basin is as biblically lean as the matzo ball soup is light. They have the Jewish version of the wonton known as the kreplach. And there’s stuffed derma or kishka, which is matzo meal and schmaltz encased by cow or sheep intestine and kasha varnishkes for the faint of heart or those who wish to protect theirs from attack. It may be hard to imagine eating a food named for a part of the body that is so essential to speech. For those who are not used to it tongue may seem a little like ordering mouth, but it’s a cold cut whose essence creates no philosophical quandary for aficionados who eat it on rye with Russian dressing. Pickles half and full sour, cole slaw and even macaroni salad are the manna that introduces all meals at this mecca of Jewish cuisine.