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Photograph by Hallie Cohen |
Did you know The International
Muay Thai Thaphae Boxing Stadium on Moonmuang Road in Chiang Mai won “the Muaysiam of north Aword, the
best stadium of the year” in 2011? It’s a classic boxing ring in a poor man’s
shopping mall, a large corrugated metal roof which is surrounded by
concessions. Those who grew up under one of the old elevated subway lines which
still exists in the outer boroughs of New York would
recognize the comforting claustrophobia and
stench of the place. The banks of audience seats are almost totally filled with English and Australians who are served drinks by a waiter who’s
androgynous nature is a far cry from the gruff bartenders you find in an
American boxing venue like Madison Square Garden. But then again one recent
Muay Thai champion is a lady boy. In America Michael Buffer, the ring
announcer
cries out “Let’s get ready to
rumble.” But Muay Thai fights at Thaphae however brutal with their knee and low
leg kicks begin with an ancient ritual. The ring announcer plays a tune on an ancient
instrument to announce the event, very much like the Jews blowing the shofar on
the high holidays. And before any fighting begins two fighters do the equivalent
of a karate kata, in which the conventions are honored in a choreographed pas
de deux where no blows are thrown. Then it’s time for the bone crushing action
to begin. The first fight are two l0 or ll year old boys who wear nothing
besides trunks, gloves and mouthpieces. There are no helmets, shoes or other
protections and the two fighters smile almost embarrassedly as they try to
inflict severe injuries on each other. MMA fights that you see on Fox
television have equal if not more brutality, but they lack both the ritual and
traditions. They are simply about kicking, punching and submission. Could a
Muay Thai knockout represent a form of Buddhist enlightenment?
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