Friday, January 27, 2012

Chile Journal VIII: Chile Dog



Drawing by Hallie Cohen

Lomo a lo pobre (a slab on meat, on fries, top by bull's eyes), and porotos  granados a vegetarian bean stew can be savored in Bellavista, the Bohemian section of Santiago, at establishments like the venerable Gallindo. If you walk through Bellavista you will come to the funicular which rides to the top of Cerro San Cristobal. The Virgin of Santiago, a white statue at the top, which is visible from most parts of the city, is reminiscent of the flying Christ figure in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, only this one is not an expression of cinematic irony. The summit of the Cerro is a holy site and this virgin commands attention on a truly catholic basis, using the literal meaning of the word. But before you even get to Bellavista, as you cross the polluted waters of the Mapocho River from the Place d’Italia, you will come to a hot dog stand. In Manhattan there have always been thousands of hot dogs stands with umbrellas where you get the choice of mustard or relish and sometimes sauerkraut. Chileans take their hot dogs as seriously as their lomo a lo pobre and in the evening there are lines for this particular stand where a hot dog is served not only with mustard and relish, but avocado, tomatoes and home made mayonnaise. While no sauerkraut is in sight, these hot dogs are nothing to sneer at. They can easily constitute a full meal and the delicious bread on which they are served is the closest Chilians will ever get to the baguette. 

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